Day 26 - Kobarid to Innerkrems

Sunday 22nd July 2018

There is thunder in the night and some rain, but nothing like the night we stayed here four years ago. We had watched the World Cup Final in a tiny bar in Kobarid (Germany 1 Argentina 0) and just got back to the tents when the heavens opened. Thunder and lightning echoed and flashed around the mountains and the rain came down in a massive deluge.

There was a group of Czech push-bikers with minibus backup camping near us. All they had were pop up festival tents and in the morning I remember seeing them wringing litres of water out of sodden sleeping bags.

The Napoleon bridge, just below our campsite in Kobarid


With our quality gear we were fine, but felt very sorry for those guys.

Our breakfast is a lovely Slovenian hard cheese and local bread we bought at the nearby supermarket last night. Then we are off early , heading for Italy.

We take the tiny Ucja Pass road from Zaga. I first found this road on a road trip with my son Jake back in 2011 or 2012. It is hard to spot on the map , just a tiny little back road that looks like it may go nowhere. But where it goes is up the Ucja river and through the Della Prealpi Guili Park into Italy at Resiutta. 

On the Ucja Pass road

It is tiny. So narrow that every blind corner is an adventure. Fortunately very few travellers use this road and we pass maybe two other bikes and a couple of cars during the hour or so that it takes to get down into the Fella River valley on the Italian side.

We stop for coffee at a little cafe  near the summit then begin the descent down to Resiutta. The road winds down through a beautiful forest, with multiple tournanti to keep us sharp.

At the cafe at the top of the Ucja Pass




Tight hairpins in the forest dropping down into Italy


I love this road


When we arrive down in the valley we follow the Fella River, a tributary of the larger Tagliamento, to Pontebba at the southern foot of the Passo di Pramollo aka Naßfeld Pass.

Naßfeld is a particular favourite of mine. The southern ascent is all twisty corners and hairpins on a long climb up to the summit. Unfortunately now it is in need of some resurfacing work. It’s time for the Giro d’Italia to come this way again.

In the Fella River valley


We eat pasta at the cafe at the top of Naßfeld then drop down into Austria and turn back east towards Spital where we join the motorway in the sky for a short run up to Gmünd. Then onto the familiar B99 before turning off right for the final run up to Innerkrems and the start of Nockalmstrasse.

This is our destination for the night. Tomorrow we will spend the whole day riding the incredible Nockalm. Booking.com has led us to the Pension Zirbenhof and it is perfect for our needs. 

Parked up under the eves at Pension Zirbenhof


Right next to the turn for the start of the Nockalmstrasse


We have two rooms, both doubles, at Pension Zirbenhof for €32 each per night including the standard (fabulous) Austrian breakfast. Can’t argue with that! So we book in for two nights. Tomorrow will be a luggage-free Nockalmfest.

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